Kettlewell and Buckden, Wharfdale, North Yorkshire

5th August 2022: Kettlewell Village

This weekend, we have returned to Kettlewell, which is a beautiful village in Wharfdale, in the Yorkshire Dales. We are staying on a temporary holiday site, organised by the Hudderfield and Spen District Association of the Camping and Caravanning Club, at Low Hall Farm, Town End Fields, where we were given a very warm welcome by the stewards, Gerry and Val. Many thanks to them for making us feel welcome despite not having booked in advance.

On our arrival, we re-explored the village and visited the Parish Church of St Marys.

Built on the site of firstly Norman and then Georgian churches, the present building was consecrated in 1885.

Walking around the churchyard later, we saw a Tawny Owl perched on one of the headstones. Although it was clearly aware of our presence, it seemed not to be concerned and we were obviously keeping it awake.

Saturday 6th August 2022: A walk up the dale.

We had visited Kettlewell last August when we “enjoyed” a very challenging circular walk from Kettlewell, along the river then up from Starbotton over the moor-tops and back to Kettlewell. See link to that post below:

https://see-u-later.co.uk/2021/08/22/starbotton-north-yorkshire/

With the weather perfect for walking, we initially retraced our steps of last year, upstream to the bridge at Starbotton, then continuing on north to Buckden along the Dales Way. As we were still getting over Covid, we wanted to avoid a strenuous walk, so we planned to stick to the valley floor.

It had obviously been very dry weather recently. Many of the streams had completely dried up and there was no need to use the bridge at this point.

Much of Wharfdale is owned by the National Trust. According to the Yorkshire Dales National Park website, Buckden was once in the centre of a medieval hunting forest. It lies in the upper part of the dale, around 4.5 miles from Kettlewell.

Sunday 7th August: Gilbert Lane to Stake Moss

We only planned to stay a couple of nights in Kettlewell, so with regret, left the site, but with a full day to fill before needing to make the journey home, we explored further up Wharfdale, beyond Buckden and up onto the moor.

We parked at the end of Gilbert Lane, an unmade road which is used mainly by 4×4 vehicles, off-road motorbikes and mountain-bikers. The road crosses the high moorland towards Hawes.

After an initial steep climb, we reached a plateau It was striking in that we seemed to be the only ones on the planet at that time, with the only thing to be heard being the wind in the grass.

Then three Landrover Defenders came past, their occupants waving at us as they passed.

We were tempted onwards towards a possible fine view over the other side of the hill, but finally after walking for around an hour we gave up on this ambition and returned back the way we had come, to Fufu, having enjoyed our walk, albeit ultimately a little frustrating.