Saturday 11th to Sunday 12th May 2024
We had decided to spend the first couple of days of our trip, on the east coast of the Cotentin Peninsula before making our way to Brittany.
Saturday 11th May: Phare de Gatteville and Barfleur
The north eastern coast has a number of lighthouses, but none are as tall as the Phare de Gatteville, which is the 3rd tallest traditional lighthouse in the world, at 75 metres (247 ft) high. There are 365 steps up to the gallery.
In the 18th century, the large number of shipwrecks in the Barfleur coast prompted the construction of the original lighthouse on this site (on the seaward side). This was completed in 1775 and was later upgraded in 1835. A model in the museum illustrates how offshore lighthouse crew used to transfer to and from ship …scary!
We were able to park nearby and had a look around the base platform and museum. You are able to climb up inside the lighthouse for a moderate 3 € per person, but we passed on this, …the weather was too misty for a clear view (our excuse, anyway!).
The attractive town of Barfleur, is a thriving fishing port with a large harbour. We were able to park overnight to the north of the town, behind the sea-wall. The wall has steps up the top every so often, so it is used as a path by many.
The town has a long history. There are some old buildings, and a large plaque fixed to a rock in the harbour marks the Norman’s departure from Barfleur, to England for the battle of Hastings in 1066.
One of the buildings on the main street commemorates this further, being named after Guillaume Le Conquérant (William the Conquerer). It is clearly an old building …but not that old.
The inside of St Nicholas’ Church is quite ornate, but the decoration is showing its age in many places.
The harbour is busy and there are some fishing boats moored on the quayside:
An interesting feature of many buildings is the glazed pottery ornamentation…
They are also used for some signs. This was at the entrance to an alleyway, near the church. It clearly reflected on traditional activity down there.
Sunday 12th May: Saint Vaast-la-Hougue
A little further south on the Contentin east coast, is the small town of Saint Vaast-la-Hougue.
The town has a fishing industry (with 37 active vessels) and there is some boat building/repairs, but the harbour/marina is huge with a capacity of 750 vessels.
Water levels in the marina are controlled by sea-lock gates, which open at high tide. As a consequence of this, as the walkway is on top of the gates, you are unable to cross when they are open, requiring a long walk around, if you want to explore or get to the ferry across to the island.
There are two defensive towers, one on the island of Tatihou and a similar one at the end of a peninsula to the south, La Hougue. Together they form some of the “Vauban Fortifications”, a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Marquis of Vauban, was appointed “Commissaire Général des Fortifications” in 1655. There are 12 groups of such fortifications around the perimeter of France.
We were unable to book a place on the ferry to L’îsle Tatihou as they were fully booked, but instead, we cycled to La Hougue where we climbed the tower. We were lucky …it has limited opening dates.
There are the remains of German defences there, as well as a gun. Apparently, there were originally 4 guns.
Inside the tower:
Views from the top of the tower:
Returning to the town, the Chapelle des Marins is classified as a historic monument. It is still in use and apparently you can be married there.
There are some interesting shops and even an Irish pub.
It was a nice day, and on our return to the aire where we had left Fufu for our overnight stay, we passed some people cooling off in the sea.
"See-u-Later" 