Brittany 3: Chateau de St. Sauveur-le-Vicomte, Abbaye-de-Lessay and Cathédrale du Coutances, Normandy.

Monday 13th May 2024

Leaving the east coast of the Cotentin Peninsula, we travelled south-westerly towards our destination for the night, Le Mont Saint-Michel, stopping to explore anything that looks interesting along the way.

Chateau de Saint Sauveur-le-Vicomte

St. Sauveur-le-Vicomte is a large village near the centre of the peninsula. It’s chateau was founded in the second half of the tenth century, under the reign of Richard I, third duke of Normandy. Since then, it has changed hands many times, including involvement in the hundred years war with England. After the French defeat at the battle of Crecy, it was bequeathed to the King of England, but was retaken after a siege by King Charles V of France. At times during the 15th century it was also occupied by English soldiers.

It has been regarded as a historic monument since 1840, but was severely damaged by American bombing in WW2, then subsequently restored to its present, but incomplete state.

I do not know if proximity to the 80th Anniversary of the D-day landings, in three weeks or so, on the 6th June has any bearing, but on our travels we have found a number of references to that event (including the sale of many souvenirs). Here, on the castle walls, we found photographs of the devastation left after the town was liberated by American forces.

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The Abbaye Church of Lessay

Lessay is a small town with an active Benedictine Abbey. The abbey church is a Norman Romanesque structure, one of the most important such churches. The use of ribbed vaulting over the choir is one of the first such uses, along with Durham Cathedral. It was built in the 11th century.

Again, there were photographs displayed nearby that depicted the town’s destruction resulting from WW2. The images show that the church suffered extensive damage.

It was again, American forces that liberated this town. The image below right shows the river being bridged.

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Cathédrale du Coutances

The city of Coutances has a spectacular cathedral which we managed to visit, despite the clearing-up work being undertaken in the city centre following a jazz festival over the weekend.

The building has two 80 metre tall spires and a large tower. It is also on a hill, so can be seen as far away as Jersey (on a clear day). Due to the works taking place, I was unable to get far enough away for a clearer view.

Stylistically Gothic, it is similar to Le Mans cathedral, if not quite a big. It is however, very impressive.

One of the side chapels and one of the aisles:

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