Champagne, Les Balmes des Montbrun and Aubignas, The Ardèshe Region, France

Monday 22nd and Tuesday 23rd September 2025

With very poor weather, we decided to move further south and west, so bypassing Lyon, we headed towards, then down the Rhone Valley, crossing the huge river several times along the way. Again we passed through mixed countryside and small towns and once we got out of the rain, it became quite enjoyable.

An EDF Power Station that we passed.

Monday – Champagne:

A full (long) day’s drive later we arrived at our chosen stopover, on the outskirts of a small town called Champagne (not where the bubbly wine comes from), though we stayed on an aire which was the car park of a large winery.

The following morning, we managed to purchase some of their (hopefully) fine produce before moving on.

Inside the rather posh, wine shop.

Tuesday (1) – Les Balmes des Montbrun:

We had decided to visit Les Balmes des Montbrun after seeing it on the map as a “Troglodyte Village”. So After travelling a further couple of hours further south, and ascending to a high plateau on narrow, hair-pinned roads, then travelling down a very narrow road (thankfully nothing coming the other way), we arrived and had lunch in the cafe there.

I do not think I have ever eaten in a cafe with a better view (and the food was good too):

The Troglodyte village was carved into the cliff sides below the cafe and there was a very steep path down to them, which was quite challenging in places.

The village dates from medieval times, when a community used the fact that the cliffs are made of tufa, a soft volcanic rock, to carve out dwellings.

It was clearly a precipitous existence, as many dwellings opened directly out into fresh air, high up on the cliff face. It was also quite a stiff climb down, up the other side, exploring, then back the way we had come.

Tuesday (2) – Augbignas:

We had identified a motorhome aire, about 30 minutes further on, which looked promising. But wow, when we arrived, it far surpassed our expectations.

The motorhome aire, viewed from the village
View over the valley from Fufu

The aire is on a headland and overlooks the village and the surrounding countryside and the village itself is gorgeous. Built on a hill, most of the buildings are inaccessible by vehicles and steep paths run between the dwellings.

View of the village from Fufu

The chateau and church are combined into one building and a woman who we met, explained that the church was originally the chapel of the chateau. Although it was built by the local nobleman, now, the chateau is occupied by the priest.

Most of the buildings are built of black basalt, an extremely hard igneous rock which is volcanic in origin. Basalt has been quarried in this area; an important industry for the village.

That is it for today. TTFN and See-u-later.

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