Sat 10th, to Mon 12th October 2026
We took a couple of days to get to Lourdes, calling at Mirepoix and Abbaye de L’Escaladieu on the way. This trip is starting to look a bit like a pilgrimage, but no, we just admire the work of medieval craftsmen and women, whether ecclesiastical or secular.
Mirepoix:
The very picturesque city of Mirepoix, was a complete surprise. We just happened to be driving through, when Alison said “That looks interesting”, so we parked Fufu and walked into the medieval town square which is jaw-droppingly beautiful.
The cathedral is also worth noting. It is another very wide-naved church with a high ceiling and many individual chapels around the sides. It is astonishing to see so much space. I greatly admire the skills of the medieval builders responsible. Truly amazing.
Abbaye de L’Escaladieu:
The small ex-cistercian abbey of L’Escaladieu has a very long history. Founded in 1142, it became in important pilgrimage stopping point for those heading for Santiago de Compostela on the “Way of Saint James”. It became the mother house of other Cistercian houses as the order spread into Spain.
From 1830 to 1986, the abbey was in private hands. It was then purchased by the Hautes-Pyrénées council and restored. Now it is used as a function venue and exhibition space.
When we visited, there was a function in full swing. We had missed the start, but apparently, according to a lovely couple we met on the car park, Tina and John, the gathering had processed into the courtyard wearing cloaks and other regalia.
They were celebrating “Confrérie du Porc Noir de Bigorre”. Something to do with a black pig. They were served lunch, and no prizes for guessing what was on the menu!
There are artworks both inside and out of the abbey buildings:
Lourdes:
It is hard to imagine a city with so much religion on show. It must be one of largest Roman Catholic pilgrimage destinations, but the place is so full of contradictions.
We arrived on-site late afternoon and decided to visit the city to see the nightly candlelight procession in the Sanctuary:
Truly amazing; where did all those people come from?
The following morning, we took the funicular railway ride, which left just around the corner from the aire. By heck it took us up a long way. We finished the ascent to the summit on foot and the views were stunning.
The railway was built in 1900 and it remains a brilliant piece of engineering.
After lunch back at the van, we returned to the Sanctuary by bus. Our visit was just a few days after Pope Leo’s visit to the shrine, hence the huge posters of him in various locations:
There is real beauty in the very ornately decorated basilicas, which provides an extraordinary display of wealth and prosperity.
There are three basilicas on the site, one above the other in the image above, and another underground, to the left. It is absolutely huge:
There are so many businesses apparently thriving on the multitude of visitors daily, all selling much the same range of small to large statues and other religious paraphernalia.
The Roman Catholic Church is one of the main beneficiaries of this traffic. They produce the candles which are available to burn on-site and prices range from around 2 to 700 euros each.
Around 400 to 800+ tonnes of candle wax is burned every year. Remnants are recycled.
We saw some people struggling to carry a number of 10 euro candles they were going to burn. Indeed, one couple had to share the weight of a candle they had bought:
The church also sells empty water bottles with which to take away “holy” water. There are even supplied in vending machines, next to the taps:
In the end, I do not know what to think of Lourdes. I am glad we came and saw it, but were surprised by the scale of commercialism and apparent exploitation of people’s faith. I wonder if those who bought the huge candles, feel like they are purchasing their way into heaven. Might they have been better-off just donating to charity, quietly. Please forgive my scepticism; this seems more like big business than faith to me.
That is all for today, TTFN and see-u-later.
